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By mthomas
I bought this Burgundy en primeur after a tip off that some good fruit had been included because of the embarassment of riches makers in Burgundy had during 2005. A catch up chat with a pal who also bought some suggested it is in its drinking window now. I hadn’t tried a bottle until yesterday so am proud of my improving ability to delay gratification.
The Maume website states:
The cuvée of Gevrey-Chambertin (1.47 Ha, 30 year old vines) is a blend of several tiny parcels, the principle ones being “les Murots”, “la Justice”, “les Etelois”, “les Fourneaux”, “Clos prieur” and “Combe de dessus”… Whether they come from the place where small Gaillic huts were formerly built or from vineyards that once belonged the superieur abbey, the grapes blended as soon as they enter fermentation vats. The resulting wine is elegant, rich in floral aromas and notes of small red fruit.
On opening it had a lovely cherry nose and promised good things. I tasted it cellar cool and was intially reasonably happy although the finish seemed pretty dull. After half an hour there were some more intriguing, and not unpleasant, earthy notes but the finish remained pretty restrained despite the promising ‘bouquet’. Maybe it is true to its relatively lowly status and actually would have been better drunk quite young.
I expected a lot more from this but know that the mercurial nature of Burgundy means that my other bottles might be very different. Perhaps I should also check the biodynamic calendar for an optimum opening day. The weather has been pretty strange and who knows what effect this might be having.
By mthomas
Just back from lovely trip to Dordogne. Managed lots of research and writing but also found time for some R and R including ‘glamping’ and canoeing between villages for tastings.
It was really interesting to see how 2009 is viewed by the French, especially the Bordeaux en primeur offer. I didn’t buy because they are overpriced and earlier vintages from good makers, that are better value and drinking well now, are readily available. Long-term they may be a good investment and will be enjoyable wines but I have a feeling there may be a few price dips over coming years and the usual re-evaluation of initial impressions. I will back-fill once picture is clearer and dust has settled.
Vintages of the century are unsustainable if they occur every 5 years and the opportunism of the recent prices stinks. Bordeaux is becoming increasingly irrelevant to younger wine consumers and even old friends are feeling exploited. The first growths can rest on their laurels and name any price but lower down the pecking order producers will suffer because of a strategy based on short-termism. This attitude is characteristic of many businesses and not peculiar to the wine world but it does seem likely that as wine becomes more of an investment vehicle that corruption will increase. Dodgy wine funds (with no wine), ‘insider dealing’ (how can critics justify expensive jollies on companies that they are giving scores to?) and forgeries (just check out the price of empty bottles on ebay!). Consumers are being misled and ripped off in such a multitude of ways
Anyway, 2010 is unlikely to scale the heights of 2009 judging by the current wet weather and relatively poor quality grapes (anonymous example pictured left). I most enjoyed visiting St Emilion, Monbazillac and Bergerac and drank good wines at all price points. France is still awash with honest and affordable wines made by dedicated people. I hope to blog in more detail when I get the time.
By mthomas
I am increasingly enjoying Sauternes and this one from Marks and Spencer is a sound example from a good year at an affordable price (compared to the ‘big 5′ makers of Sauternes i.e. those that get invested in). The 2003s do not have the prestige of the ‘perfect’ 2001s but there are some really lovely wines available whilst the more recent, very good, vintages come on-line (2005 onwards).
This is already a gorgeous deep gold and developing complex layers of flavour. Lots of pineapple and apricot with a twist of barley sugar. It also has some wood (cedar?) and aniseed notes and spent 30 months in French oak. The acidity stops it from being cloyingly sweet and it is a sophisticated and enjoyable dessert wine.
It has 13.5% alcohol and is made by Jean Christophe-Barbe from 85% Semillon, 13% Sauvignon Blanc and 2% Muscadelle (which probably accounts for the surprising aromatics). If you think medals mean something, this won a Decanter Silver. I only bought a half-bottle but might go back and get a couple more to see how they develop over the next few years.
By mthomas
I know the tilde is missing from Albarino but this always defeats me on a UK keyboard. When I lived in Seville it took me some time to master the use of accents (I didn’t really ‘master’ them) but still have an Andalucian accent when I speak (unconjugated verbs etc.) and never learned to roll my rrrrrs - I think the ability to do this has genetic roots, like bottom shuffling.
Anyway, this is the last bottle of a long and lovely Easter weekend in Sussex, and at under £7 from Tesco it is a really sound buy. We had it with salmon smoked by a friend and warm salad potatoes with new asparagus from Middle Farm near Firle. I had packed some of my own wine to bring down and enjoy whilst house-sitting, writing and catching up with friends but forgot the box so had to do a quick ‘in and out’ in Tesco. I am not fond of supermarkets but when ‘push comes to a shove’ 24 hour opening and some decent wines amongst the dross, I can’t really complain.
The Albarino from the Salnes Valley in Rias Baixas is typically salty with a bit of astringency and greeness but enough fruit and body to manage the acidity. I would have had a light red with the salmon if I had remembered the wines from home but this probably worked better with the smoke than a red. I would like to try it with a bowl of prawns at Matalascanas some time.
Am going to walk off lunch with Sarah and the boys and coo over the new lambs before the drive back to london. The weather has been kind and we have managed walks along the beach and up on the South Downs Way as well as a visit to Charleston (picture left), where some of the Bloomsbury set hung out, and a few pints of Harveys over a roast at the Ram Inn. The boys have enjoyed their easter eggs and some of the rural stuff they don’t get in London (although Saul regrets holding a rifle sight too close to his eye and has a good little scar to show for it).
During the trip I managed to write most of the article for GRAPEStalk plus a bit of ‘the book’. I am also ’devouring’ the Montalbano novels, by Andrea Camilleri, about an eccentric Sicilian detective who loves his food. I am recharged and ready for the run in to our third year trainees on the doctorate submitting the final drafts of their theses. They are a lovely cohort and have done some great work during their three years with us.
By mthomas
I love this single vineyard Gigondas made by a relatively small family run Domaine. So much so that I mentioned it in a Decanter interview as an example of a really good value big red. The Romans recognised the potential of this area and the best Gigondas can out perform Chateauneuf made from a similar blend of grapes but costing three times as much. This is great value if you’re a lover of hand-picked GSM made in a traditional style. It has tons of characteristic spice with a structure and balance that gives it serious longevity (not that I can resist it for long).
On opening this 2004 from the Wine Society it was somewhere between plum and ruby in appearance. Still relatively young but drinking well with perfectly integrated tannins. Despite its ‘bigness’ and 14.5% alcohol it is typically French and quite unlike an over-extracted new world fruit bomb. There is a deceptive lightness of touch that is often under-appreciated in good Rhones. Less on the nose than when tasted. It has tons of liquorice, tobacco and dark fruits without being at all ‘raisiny’.
This demands big, robustly flavoured food. Perfect with a Daube of beef or Haggis and all the trimmings. I should buy some 2007 asap given the success of the appellation across tastings. Justerini and Brooks have it at the equivalent of ten quid a bottle in bond. Superb!
By mthomas
I managed to bluetooth this pic from my new phone. I am not a great photographer or a technophile so am pleased the experiment worked and will use this approach in future (and hopefully refine my photography). I would like to blog more frequently and guess the key to this will be improving my use of ICT so that I am more adept. I often don’t blog on tastings and research papers because of time constraints. I am also keen that it does not become a blog about mundanities of my life or an ego trip along the line of some of blogs out there…
I opened a bottle of Jaboulet Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert 2004 to accompany a double rack of lamb (badly butchered by me from a lamb swapped with the farmer for a sack of scallops - long story). It was really aromatic and full of herbs (rosemary) and spices that worked really well with the meat. Some slightly woody and eucalyptus notes eased off as it opened up and the 100% Syrah fruitiness shone through. I think the 04s are really good at the moment and offer a lot of value. The Rhone has produced good wine in just about every year (apart from the catastrophic 2002) since the late 90s and you can do a lot worse than the 04s until the 01s and 05s are ready to drink. Even better, pick up some bargain 98s and 99s that have mellowed over the last decade.
“The Crozes Hermitage vineyard is the largest of all the northern Rhône Valley Appellations. It extends over 11 communes situated in the Drôme, on the left bank of the Rhône. The Domaine de Thalabert has belonged to the Maison Paul Jaboulet Aîné since 1834. It is situated on the plain, and is the oldest in the Appellation” For more about their wines and the Rhone have a look at their website which is well-organised and informative.
By mthomas
An article on Collioure in the Observer Magazine by Tim Atkin this week reminded me of how good wines from this town are. It also made me reflect (no pun intended) on the quality of light on the Côte Vermeille and how this increases enjoyment by enhancing the colour of wine. The Fauvists (literally ‘wild beasts’) set up shop here because of the quality of the light and made works, such as Les Toits de Collioure by Matisse (pictured below right), that captured this.
This part of Languedoc Roussillon is quite literally the vermillion coast and, as the locals point out, is neither French nor Spanish but resolutely Catalan. It is also one of my favourite places because it is so beautiful and culture rich. More specifically because of the happy memories I have of holidays there and of great affordable wine.
In this region the wines pick up the light and become radiant when sipped by the beach with the wonderful local food. Rosés are really respected and often made in a sophisticated food friendly style. However, the light does not travel with the wines and they can lose their sparkle outside the region. We know that colour is a learned quality indicator and that a rosé drunk on a relaxed holiday with the salty sea air on your lips is likely to taste good because of contextual ‘value added’.
Makers such as Coume del Mas, Domaine de la Rectorie and Préceptoire de Centernach turn out consistently good red, whites and rosés from a range of permitted grapes including Mourvèdre, Syrah and Grenache noir (often at very low yields) for the reds and rosés . Les Caves du Roussillon are a brilliant independent outfit that represent the (politicized and passionate) makers of the region and they have outlets in Collioure and nearby Port Vendres with its working harbour providing a healthy and authentic contrast to its more touristy neighbour. If you are in this region make sure you visit both and try some of the wines at the Caves. One of my fondest wine memories was an improvised afternoon flight of old Banyuls put on for me by one of the owners, Olivier, who used to set up visits for me to local makers.
In the UK the Wine Society have a good selection from the Languedoc Roussillon and their 2008 opening offer includes Collioure Blanc l’Argile, Domaine de la Rectorie, a grenache gris which will increase in complexity as it ages over the next 5 years (a bargain for this kind depth and complexity at £95 per case in bond). It should develop wonderful petrolly characteristics as it matures but will be excellent in the interim with the grilled fish and seafood of the area. Try some of the local clams (pallourdes) and oysters (bouziges) in a cafe in Collioure, or even better make the trek to the harbour at Port Vendres and sniff out the fantastic fishmonger and small oyster bar run by fishermen and wash down six bouziges with a glass of Picpoul de Pinet for a few euros.
By mthomas
This ‘Cru Bourgeois’ from Cotes De Blaye shows how good 2005 claret is at every level. Made from 45 year old vines (80%Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon) in an ‘early drinking’ style, it is in fine form now.
A dark and intense ruby with a slightly pink (rhubarb) rim. On opening it was cellar cool but already very drinkable with lots of sweet red fruit and a hint of blackcurrant leaves. The tannins were well- integrated and it is always nice to have oak used sympathetically rather than wrung out for all its worth. After 10 minutes it was even softer and had opened up on the nose and had some cigar box and spicy notes on the finish. A pretty versatile and robust red to have with food including roasted red meats, game or a lump of hard cheese.
I think its was around £8 from The Wine Society and it has been sitting happily in my cellar for the last couple of years. It is really good to have some 05s to open now as most that I bought en primeur need a decade more to hit their stride. The 2006 retails at £9.50 and I should order a bottle to try but is unlikely to be as good as this.
By mthomas
Happy New Year! 2010 looks like being an exciting decade. Hopefully I will find time to finish writing and deliver my book to the publishers before the deadline. 
As usual I am playing catch-up with the blog and website. Having actually taken time off at xmas to make sure I caught up with friends and family I have a mountain of unopened emails, post etc. I also have two sons of an age that means I enjoy their ‘toys’ as much as they do so am spending time on the Wii and building over-sized lego models.
I received some lovely presents including a really handy victorian corkscrew which collapses and folds neatly into a small tube (pictured) to make it easy to carry (thanks James). I had a similar modern one from a motel in the Napa valley, which I was very fond of, but I recently broke it. This one is much nicer and was useful for opening some of the xmas bottles. I am not going to list them all but highlights included;
Champagne from Pierre Vaudon 2002 vintage in Magnum (Haynes, Hanson and Clarke) not cheap (£23 per bottle/£50 in magnum) but good value for champagne of this quality. Oz Clarke found hints of fudge and shortbread in it and I think both are good approximations of key elements of this lovely fizz.
Meursault Blagny (1992) 1er cru sourced by Nicolas Potel and recently bottled for Berry Bros (expensive at £49 but it was an xmas present and I have a bit of a thing about old white burgundy that is reaching the end of its life). There is something amazing about catching some of those tertiary stage flavours and bottles like this are rare and interesting as points of reference. This was in perfect condition golden and vibrant but clearly approaching the end of its life. Language falls down with wines like this and for me it is primarily a non-verbal thrill and associated memory.
The latter bottle has convinced me that I must put down Burgundy and forget about it for at least a decade. In the interim I need to buy older bottles and less en primeur (which I always end up opening too early). In 2010 a main aim is to drink less but to source more interesting wines. I am already getting better at spitting at tastings which is progress. I also haven’t drunk any wine this decade…
By mthomas
I bought this St Joseph (100 per cent Syrah) La Royes from Domaine Courbis a few years ago as part of a Wine Society ‘clear out’ of 2004 Rhones. It has aged perfectly in my cellar (Victorian coal hole) and is drinking really well right now (and should be fine for another 2 or 3 years at least). It is a perfect example of why wine should be enjoyed with food; very drinkable on its own but when paired with lamb chops it is sublime. The tannins have softened and it is brim full of black cherry fruit and background notes that suggest a trip along a spice rack.
The Domaine in the Northern Rhone (which also grows cherries) is managed by brothers Laurent and Dominique Courbis. They have integrated modern vinicultural techniques without losing touch with core values that make this region so appealing. The fruit is usually de-stemmed, cold-soaked and aged in a combination of old and new oak. This produces relatively dark, but not over-extracted, silky wine which is powerful but, at 13%, not headache-inducing (especially when combined with food - another good reason to put the oven on).
The Rhone has been producing consistently good wines for a decade, bar the 2002 nightmare vintage, and continues to offer value when compared with Burgundy and Bordeaux. Interestingly this wine is reported to have increased in value by 15% during the last year (it is a ‘90 pointer’) and is not cheap at around £20. There are lots of investors who realised that wines from the region being scored at 90+ (especially by Robert Parker) were signifcantly cheaper than wines with equivalent scores from Bordeaux or Napa. Thus was born the pound/dollar to Parker point investment strategy that has resulted in significant price increases in some of the most sought after Rhones. I think that following the recent blip in prices this will continue to be the case and hope that people who collect to enjoy (drink)wines will still be able to afford them. Wines that are destined never to be drunk because they are traded as an investment vehicle are a testament to a culture that knows the price of everything but value of very little.
I bought this Burgundy en primeur after a tip off that some good fruit had been included because of the embarassment of riches makers in Burgundy had during 2005. A catch up chat with a pal who also bought some suggested it is in its drinking window now. I hadn’t tried a bottle until yesterday so am proud of my improving ability to delay gratification.
