Last year one of my picks from the co-op range was the ecotastic Cono Sur Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (see blog). This year another wine from the Cono Sur stable stood out. The Bicicleta Pinot Noir 2011 shouted out incredible ‘quality to price ratio’. Smoky on the nose, lovely and crystalline to the eye and full of spiced fruit. At £7.49 this is a wonderful standard. Tesco often stock it too but why not plump for the Co-op instead and support their commitment to fair trade.

The Jour de Nuit Chardonnay Viognier 2012 is also a crowd pleaser with the 30% viognier adding aromatic and exotic notes to the chardonnay. Made by Xavier-Luc Linglin in Languedoc Roussillon this is yet more evidence of the area being able to produce wines that can compete in a higher price bracket (£9.99). The Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Riesling Kabinett 2011 was a fine example, also at just under ten quid. There is much to enjoy about 2011 Rieslings from the Mosel. They are fragrant, accessible and warm but a hard sell in UK supermarkets. I hope this wine does shift because it is the opposite of the mainstream homogeneity that often thrives.

Huw Johnson has suggested Anne Noble’s aroma wheel has introduced a formulaic element to tasting. It is essentially a ‘taxonomy of flavours in wine’ so this is the point of it. It is a useful tool in wine education, it stimulates discussion and exploration. The issue is that it is not that widely used and even less understood. It has to be combined with an understanding of individuality and taste profiles to really add value for consumers. I would also argue that it should expand to include many more descriptors such as the ‘exotic fruits’ and mushroom tastes being used by some  critics so that notes are meaningful for a South East Asian audience.

Interestingly, in the Laithwaite’s study “Fresh” was regarded as the most useful word, along with “zesty”. Both possibly relate to people who like acidity. They find these words signpost wines that suit them and both are handy euphemisms where ‘acid’ might have unwanted connotations. I think “peachy” comes out well because it is a popular and well known fruit associated with summer but it also has other meanings which are positive e.g. ‘good’ and ‘sexy’.  Whereas ‘vegetal’ which I sometimes find a positive quality in reds has less positive connotations and might suffer because of this rather than any descriptive utility.  My guess is that this was a major confounding variable in this study. People simply like some words more than others.

Justin Howard-Sneyd MW, who consults for Laithwaite’s, points out that the subjective nature of taste makes the results ‘unsurprising’ but then goes on to suggest; “We have probably been guilty ourselves of using overblown language in the past but this is a wake-up call to the whole wine industry to make a change.” But, surely the answer is not to ‘dumb down’ but to help people understand their own tastes and the taste and language profiles of critics.

Andrew Jefford in Decanter has argued that while “a well written tasting note has practical worth”, even established writers are capable of turning out, “inadequate, boring, incoherent or risible notes”. Jefford is probably one of the most ‘flowery’ of critics. He uses a highly technical language and is prone to metaphor. Personally I am all for this approach. I can often work out what the wine he is describing would taste like to me because I have read lots of his notes and tasted lots of the same wines. I have got benchmarks and this is what we should be encouraging people to develop.

The ‘flowery’ approach can be amusing, creative and really useful but is not an approach that sits well on the back of a bottle. Given what we know about decision-making when buying, wine retailers will increasingly use those descriptors which stimulate purchases rather than those which really inform the diversity of ways in which the wine in the bottle might be experienced by different individuals. This is a shame.

The Winery (pictured) is a gem of a local wine shop. It attracts an informed, and pretty affluent, crowd. It also stocks some really interesting wines, particularly from Germany and Italy. David is passionate about Riesling and the Thorsten Melsheimer Riesling Trocken 2011 (£14.99) from Mosel is a good example of why this grape is ‘noble’.  Thorsten describes himself as ‘stupid’ for working the ridiculously steep slopes in Reil but his passion should be applauded. He farms organically and picks late (October in 2011) so all the fruity characteristics of Riesling emerge. But, this is a dry wine and there is nothing cloying about it. A really elegant and refreshing glass on a surprisingly balmy night.

If you live in London and like Riesling you should visit The Winery at some point. If you live in, or close to, W9 you should set it as your default venue for picking up a bottle on the way home.

The Winery 4 Clifton Road W9 1SS  tel 0207 286 6475

http://www.thewineryuk.com/

My mum, who lives outside Lewes, was one of many who opposed the planning application and although I was sympathetic to the arguments against it, my selfish desire for my team to have a decent ground won out over greener concerns. It really is a stunning venue and even visiting supporters rate it highly on fan sites. With beer from Harveys and Dark Star as well as pies by Piglet’s Pantry we are well catered for. There is lots of space around the stadium so no mad crushes getting in, great acoustics and comfy padded seats. No wonder we have loads of season ticket holders and are getting the highest attendance figures in the Championship (regularly 28,000 plus).

So how does a 2007 Southern Rhone fit in to this football soliloquy? Whenever we are down for a match we visit family and friends who always seem to have fantastic foraged food, game or homegrown veg. Recently I came back with some wild venison which stimulated a 2007 Rhone tasting as I was conscious I have a few that are probably peaking. It was a difficult but decent year, (especially when compared to Bordeaux) but is surrounded by the excellent 2005, 2006, 2009 and 2010 vintages which tend to overshadow it. Forget about the 08s…

Chateauneuf-du-pape, Domaine de la Roquette 2007

This is designed to be more approachable than it’s famous sibling Vieux Telegraphe (which was great in 2007 but still needs years to peak). This was the third bottle I have tried over the last 18 months and I was surprised how quickly it seems to be fading. Perfectly drinkable but lacking the subtlety and the complexity I had hoped it might develop. Dark fruit, alcohol and a bit of spice. I could buy something cheaper from more recent vintages that would knock spots off it. Maybe it is in an awkward, slightly closed, stage?

Domaine de l’Ameillaud Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne 2007

Cairanne is often pretty humble stuff but this showed some nice garrigue notes which worked with the venison. Made with a deft touch by Nick Thompson everything was nicely integrated and balanced. I am not sure I would leave this hanging around if I had any left. I’m sure it might last but it is hard to see it gaining anything and it is really enjoyable now.

Côtes du Rhône Villages Secret de Famille, Paul Jaboulet 2007

Jacques Desvernois sourced Syrah from Dauzaman in the Gard to make this for the Wine Society. Some Grenache was added (10%) and this has proved to be a wise decision as it definitely adds another dimension to it. More than capable of another couple of years but I wouldn’t go past 2015. Nice purple showing some age, sweet and spicy. A good affordable effort from classy stable.

Côtes du Rhône Coudoulet de Beaucastel 2007

I love this wine in most vintages. The Mourvedre in the GSM blend is key. It often disappoints on opening but left to its own devices for an hour (or two), preferably in the open air, it starts to morph into something slightly animal. Crunchy when young this is well into its stride but shows no sign of fading. The brothers Brunier seem to take more risks, or exercise less control, with this wine than Roquette above. I am probably the one per cent that would rank this higher if I was forced to give scores.

Days became a simple refrain involving golf, wine, reading, chat and waves crashing in along the atlantic coast.  And so it goes…  This kind of routine has become alien to me and much as I love the frenetic pace of life in london it was a real antidote to atomised attention. Not enough to make me want to retreat to a Himalayan monastery but definitely enough to make me question the value added by information and communication technology.

So as I sipped Alvarinho with friends I became ever more conscious of the connection between the wine and the, for want of a better word, ‘terroir’. Vinho Verde means “green wine,” but translates better as “young wine”. The modern ‘Vinho Verde’ region was originally designated in 1908 and includes the old Minho province plus adjacent areas to the south. The resulting wines are widely available and keenly priced in Portugal. For example Muralhas (pictured) can be picked up for as little as 5 euros (or 3 or 4 times the price in a nice restaurant). Another good value one that is on a lot of restaurant lists is Deu et Deu.

I have often sung the praises of Albarino from over the border in Spain and there is something about the grape that ticks all the boxes for me. Refreshing, tangy, salty, peachy; great as an aperitif and good with lots of food. Often there is a pleasant spritz along with a limey acidity which makes it thirst quenching.  Also it tends not to be too boozy so can be glugged.  It is not always easy to find in the UK but Asda have an Albarino from the Rias Baixas in Spain (pictured) which is sometimes reduced from its already reasonable £7.98.

I was really amazed by this wine as I would probably have plugged for Puligny in a blind tasting!  Made in the Okanagan Valley, the main viticultural area in British Columbia, by CedarCreek Estate (twice crowned ”Canada’s Winery of the Year”). This is part of their top-of-the-range Platinum label and was obviously made with serious care and attention, not to mention expensive barrels. It is easy to see why it’s picked up awards in Canada and the US. 357 cases were made but I guess not many pitched up in the UK.  I  will keep an eye out for other wines from CedarCreek and try to visit if I am in BC. This will drink well for years to come and I would love to taste it as it evolves and that expensive oak becomes more integrated.

Hand picked clone 76 and whole berry cluster pressed. 100% barrel fermented (25% with wild vineyard yeast) and 10 months in oak “from Coopers François Frères, Mercurey, Berthomieu, Remond and Dargaud & Jaegle”. Bottled September 2011 and released June 2012 . I love makers who put comprehensive information on the net. As well as the geek stuff they also have fun with tasting notes (see below) and a featured recipe; ‘bacon jam’ .  If you haven’t tried bacon jam their version is here. You could cook up a batch and pair it with this wine.

WHAT WE SMELL Pineapple and roasted almonds.

WHAT WE TASTE Grapefruit. Minerals and spice.

WE’D EAT IT WITH Fresh crab, just pulled from the pot on the stove.

WE’D ALSO PAIR IT WITH Joni Mitchell’s 1971 album, Blue.

The Corney and Barrow Tasting at the Tower of London gave an excellent overview of the pros and cons of the vintage and was the one that got me to part with cash.  I ended up buying all three wines being shown by Domaine A & P de Villaine. The name will probably ring DRC bells but this is Aubert de Villaine’s own Domaine, based in Bouzeron, set up with his wife Pamela and now run by his nephew Pierre. (Website here). Villaine is of the ‘wines are made in the vineyard’ school of thought, and the wines reflect restraint in the cellar. A & P de Villaine has been organic since 1986 (certified by Qualicé-France) and the approach is well-bedded in, perhaps influencing the high quality of the fruit despite challenging conditions in 2011.

The Côte Chalonnaise (named after the region’s county town Chalon-sur-Saône and AKA Région de Mercurey) was identified as having good terroir by monks during the Middle Ages. Wines from Bouzeron, Rully, Mercurey and Montagny often provide value at a basic level but the area also has some seriously good makers some of them, like Villaine, interested in tradition rather than fashion.  These wines also seem to be particularly food friendly.

Bourgogne Aligoté de Bouzeron (2011) A & P de Villaine; Aligoté may have been relegated in much of Burgundy (often for good reason) but in Bouzeron it is still extensively grown. This is Aligoté Doré, more refined than the more prevalent Aligoté and, in this incarnation, it ages well. Lots of lemon and hints of melon with wonderful minerality. Not cheap but fascinating and satisfying. Corney and Barrow, £135 per case of 12 in bond.

Rully Les Saint-Jacques (2011) A & P de Villaine; Despite its youth this is accessible (and may not be the longest lived white burg out there). The usual suspects of green fruit and blossom with a bit of brioche. I guess I could have bought any number of similar wines elsewhere but there was something about staying with the maker once I had decided on the other two wines. Corney and Barrow, £175 per case of 12 in bond.

Mercurey Les Montots (2011) A & P de Villaine; ‘Les Montots is situated on a fairly steep slope with southern exposure, planted with a selection of Pinot Noir vines from Nuits-Saint-Georges chosen for their aromatic qualities and moderate yield.’ Assorted red fruits and pleasant spiciness. At first it appears quite slight but there is an underlying structure that makes it surprisingly age-worthy (ready to drink in a year or two but potentially until 2020 onward).  Traditional yet quirky, I can’t wait to drink it cellar cool with food. Corney and Barrow, £100 per case of 6 in bond. (This is made in such a small quantity that there is a limit of 6 per customer).

Somewhere in Normandy. 15082 G Unit
All continues to go well over here except the blasted weather but we have excellent tents with fly sheets so nothing comes through except the shrapnel of our ever-loving Allies. They really are, to say the least, “A bit much”, as they fire at everything including gremlins…… I had an enjoyable time yesterday. I took a lorry & 3 men out from 2 to 7 P.M. on a food & liquor hunt. We went into a fair-sized local town about 15 miles from here which is quite unscratched. It is packed with troops & although there is plenty of stuff in the shops the French have got Black Market prices beaten hollow. I found I could cope with the language fairly well, that is I could make them understand but their replies took rather a lot of sorting out. The chaps wanted some liquor but the wine shops were all dry, however I scrounged around & found a wholesalers & after a bit of nattering he agreed to let me have some, so down in the cellars we went. Most of the wines are very new but found some 1937 Burgundy & a good Barsac (Sauterne) 1942, both at 175 francs a bottle (17/6). I nearly crowned him when he told me, but the guys wanted liquor so cursed him in English & came away with the booze. They only have sweet Champagne in these parts, this guy had plenty at 195 frcs. (19/6) & I told him he could sell it to come other sucker, at least that’s what I meant.

He had obviously picked up some Americanisms from ‘our allies’ and has some great examples of their banter. At first he thought they were pretty hopeless (one anecdote concerns him liberating one of his Polish friends who had been ‘captured’ by the Yanks’)  but he quickly warmed to them. He also admired their waterproof jackets and managed to get one but obviously needed to customize it because he later wrote “Darling please send me some F/Os braid to make stripes for epaulettes of my Yankee jacket“. He was also partial to the ‘whiskeys and sodas’ they doled out and tells a great story about tumblers full of Brandy with some Russian troops. He was a keen beer drinker but seems to have developed a taste for sweet wines during his time in France (sometimes with a biscuit at tea time!) and I would love to know details of the Barsac.  I was lucky to have known him and he lived until I was in my twenties. I will always remember the ‘cowboy fort’ he built me and his warm and tolerant manner. He also had a lovely golf swing which I like to think may have a genetic component.

In the introduction Matt Walls  (The Sampler) sets out his aim to write a ’concise book that covers all the things you really need to know in plain English’. On these terms this book is a clear success. Split into two parts; Part 1 is ‘Buying Tasting and Drinking ‘ (the basics), whilst part 2 is a bit of a catchall with ‘The World’s Most commmon Wines’, ‘The Old World’, ‘The New World’ and ‘Useful Stuff’.  There is a nice section on ‘tasting and some really grounded advice on different places to buy wine (and what to avoid). It’s amusing and easy to skim read but has enough content to make it a useful reference guide.

There are a few less successful sections, which feel slightly ‘fillerish’, and the odd bit of Homer Simpson inspired advice. The ‘bottle opening in an emergency guide’ should carry a safety warning; the downsides to the ‘bang-it-on the-wall’ approach are listed as ‘your neighbours will hate you and your teeth will hurt’ but experience suggests this should read ‘if you bang too hard your mum’s wallpaper will end up looking avant garde and your hand will need micro surgery’… But these are minor asides and, in their own way, are the things that make the book unstuffy.

This is not a book for the established geek who will pick up on small details related to the geology of Sancerre but is spot on for a relative beginner who wants to develop their wine knowledge. Most suitable, perhaps, as a stocking filler for a son or daughter at university needing encouragement to ditch the vodka Redbull for a much more interesting tipple.

Walls, M. (2012) Drink Me! How to Choose, Taste and Enjoy Wine Quadrille Publishing £12.99

“Because glutamate sites become less effective, information flow becomes slow, and only the largest signals can make it through. This means you feel less, perceive less, notice less, and remember less”…