By mthomas
I am currently writing a section for ‘the book’ on contextual influences on perception and was aware of research from Germany on ambient lighting having an influence on taste. This is true even when the lighting doesn’t directly effect the colour of the wine. It even influences the subjective value of the wine and the amount of money consumers are willing to spend. This has obvious relevance for bars and retail outlets.
Daniel Oberfeld-Twistel and colleagues at Johannes Gutenberg Univerity in Mainz served the same bottle of Riesling under varied lighting. Red light appeared to increase perceived sweetness and increase the amount per bottle participants were prepared to spend by one Euro/70 pence (blue light also did this).
The effects seem to be related to changes in mood but further work is planned to attempt to determine precise mechanism(s). This is yet another indication of the power of context and wine tasters should be (and often are) mindful of such influences.
Daniel Oberfeld, Heiko Hecht, Ulrich Allendorf and Florian Wickelmaier. Ambient lighting modifies the flavor of wine. Journal of Sensory Studies, 2009; 24 (6): 797 Abstract is (here)
By mthomas
This book is a bit of a curate’s egg (or according to the authors, a cabinet of bibelots ) but perhaps none the worse for it. They write well about topics that they are knowledgeable and passionate about, and there is much to enjoy between the covers. From wine and the legend of Gilgamesh to salinity technology as a saviour for the Australian wine industry, they are divergent and expansive in terms of focus and content. This makes for a slightly atomised, if entertaining, read for anyone interested in wine. Its unique selling point (USP) is still a mystery to me but I hope the title will draw in readers who are intrigued.
Burk is a Professor of History at UCL and Bywater a writer and broadcaster by trade. This book feels like a discussion or exchange of anecdotes between the two which has been recorded, transcribed and collated into one tome. But, it is never really clear whose voice we are listening to and this is perhaps the biggest flaw of the book. Because of this absence of a consistent narrative device, or voice, it functions best as something to ‘dip’ into. I have really enjoyed dipping in to it and sections, such as the one on ‘comet wines’, have as much to say about the present as the past. We may scoff at this type of superstition but many similar attributions are still apparent in the modern wine world.
There is material relevant to psychological dimensions such as issues of status e.g. the ‘potlatch’ ceremonies of the Northwest Pacific. There is also much about the limitations of language and one of the best comments I have read on the 1855 Bordeaux Classification; ”The whole situation supports the theory that the human quest for certainty is stronger than the desire for a more truthful ambiguity”. (page 84)
A book containing so much information by such learned and informed people deserves a decent referencing system. There are no footnotes so following up on citations and quotations is difficult. Any future edition would be greatly improved by this. The illustrations are also poor when compared to the written content and the book deserved higher production values. However, neither fault detracts to the extent that the many pearls contained in this book become dull. Many of them shine out and are precious.
Burk, K. and Bywater, M. (2008) Is This Bottle Corked? The Secret Life of Wine Faber
ISBN 978-0-571-2417-3
By mthomas
I managed to bluetooth this pic from my new phone. I am not a great photographer or a technophile so am pleased the experiment worked and will use this approach in future (and hopefully refine my photography). I would like to blog more frequently and guess the key to this will be improving my use of ICT so that I am more adept. I often don’t blog on tastings and research papers because of time constraints. I am also keen that it does not become a blog about mundanities of my life or an ego trip along the line of some of blogs out there…
I opened a bottle of Jaboulet Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert 2004 to accompany a double rack of lamb (badly butchered by me from a lamb swapped with the farmer for a sack of scallops - long story). It was really aromatic and full of herbs (rosemary) and spices that worked really well with the meat. Some slightly woody and eucalyptus notes eased off as it opened up and the 100% Syrah fruitiness shone through. I think the 04s are really good at the moment and offer a lot of value. The Rhone has produced good wine in just about every year (apart from the catastrophic 2002) since the late 90s and you can do a lot worse than the 04s until the 01s and 05s are ready to drink. Even better, pick up some bargain 98s and 99s that have mellowed over the last decade.
“The Crozes Hermitage vineyard is the largest of all the northern Rhône Valley Appellations. It extends over 11 communes situated in the Drôme, on the left bank of the Rhône. The Domaine de Thalabert has belonged to the Maison Paul Jaboulet Aîné since 1834. It is situated on the plain, and is the oldest in the Appellation” For more about their wines and the Rhone have a look at their website which is well-organised and informative.
