Gigondas Domaine Clos des Cazaux 2004

By mthomas

I love this single vineyard Gigondas made by a relatively small family run Domaine. So much so that I mentioned it in a Decanter interview as an example of a really good value big red. The Romans recognised the potential of this area and the best Gigondas can out perform Chateauneuf made from a similar blend of grapes but costing three times as much. This is great value if you’re a lover of hand-picked GSM made in a traditional style.  It has tons of characteristic spice with a structure and balance that gives it serious longevity (not that I can resist it for long).

On opening this 2004 from the Wine Society it was somewhere between plum and ruby in appearance. Still relatively young but drinking well with perfectly integrated tannins. Despite its ‘bigness’ and 14.5% alcohol it is typically French and quite unlike an over-extracted new world fruit bomb. There is a deceptive lightness of touch that is often under-appreciated in good Rhones. Less on the nose than when tasted. It has tons of  liquorice, tobacco and dark fruits without being at all ‘raisiny’.

This demands big, robustly flavoured food. Perfect with a Daube of beef or Haggis and all the trimmings. I should buy some 2007 asap given the success of the appellation across tastings. Justerini and Brooks have it at the equivalent of ten quid a bottle in bond. Superb!