Feb

5

Whiteout and a white from Savoie

By mthomas

I thought I had escaped the Siberian cold front when I left Geneva on Friday… The temperature in the Alps had been around minus 4, with excellent skiing all week, but minus 30 (with chill factor) was expected so it was perfect timing for a return to balmy London.  However, the coming week in the UK will no doubt be categorized by snow induced chaos. I had hoped to make a tasting tomorrow with Raeburn wines at Hedone but the chances of Chiswick being accessible are as slight as me going to the South Pole on the Jubilee Line.

During the trip (to St Jean d’ Aulps near Morzine) I tried as many local wines as possible as they were a bit of an unknown quantity. I had enjoyed some Swiss Pinot Noir previously and knew there were a myriad of local varieties including chasselas (fendant), sylvaner (valais), gamaret etc.  However, the ‘house’ red and white (both from the Languedoc)  were so good it was hard to justify drinking anything else although there were a few forays into host Mark’s (chilly) cellar.

Pictured is a 2010 Vin de Savoie chosen mainly because it is called  ’Cuvee’ Thomas’! Made from jacquère (a local grape with, usually, high yields and not a great reputation in terms of ‘nobility’) by Jean Noel Blard and described as ‘vielles vignes’ from ‘anciennes parcelles’. It has a bit more minerality than most of the AOC vin de Savoie I tried and makes a decent aperitif but would be ideal with a fondue from local cheeses (such as Comte’, Beaufort or Abondance) and cepes.

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