As previously blogged, reading The Drops of God Manga (review here) whetted my appetite for a decent Burgundy. I couldn’t stretch to the 1990 DRC Richebourg (featured) in the story so plumped for a Monopole Beaune from Nicolas Potel bought en primeur from the wine society in a mixed case. Just as an aside, I have more or less given up on buying en primeur. The last time I bought any Bordeaux was 2005 and I have no intention of buying any more. This is partly because of prices which are increasingly exploitative and subject to fluctuations due to trading such as those seen with 2010. There are also longevity issues (not simply that the wines will not be ready to drink for 20 years but also that I am now 45…), although I am happy with the idea of my kids cracking some open in their twenties and thirties. I have also come to the conclusion that I prefer Burgundy (red and white) and Rhones (red) so will focus on them. I am also at a stage where I want to ‘back fill’ with wines that I know that I enjoy and are ready to drink.
With all things Burgundian generalizations can often be of limited use but the 06s are mostly drinking before the 05s and I have tasted a few recently that are in really good shape. Nicolas Potel is generally a safe pair of hands and the Beaune is a Parker 90 pointer (cited for reference not kudos). The fruit was bought from the owner of the decently sited Monopole (Les Vignes Franches) near the southern end of Beaune’s Premier Cru vineyards close to the boundary with Pommard and I had reasonably high expectations given the vineyard, maker, supplier and critic’s assessments.
On opening it was a lovely colour, crystalline raspberry with a pink rim and no obvious signs of age. It had quite a boozy nose which surprised me (13%ABV) but not much else going on. First taste showed concentration yet it was relatively light as pinot should be (in my opinion). It was cherry all the way with little meaty or herby complexity.
I was looking to satisfy a craving (although as I was playing tennis 3 hours later I knew one glass would be all I could indulge in) and so ‘pumped and fridged’ the rest of the bottle, hoping that it might be more expressive the next day.
24 hours later it was still slightly montone (a reasonably pleasant tone but not the complex melody I had hoped for). Don’t get me wrong, this is technically ‘on the ball’ and a really nice wine, it just didn’t have that magic I craved. It could be characterized as a feminine wine and would probably make most people very happy; especially if they love those round cherry liqueur chocolates (which is what it most reminded me of).
Anyone into their wikis could update the wikipedia entry for Monopole Burgundys (here) because Clos des Vignes Franches is not listed.
Amazon finally got around to sending me the recently published English language version of the first volume of The Drops of God aka ‘Kami no Shizuku’ and ‘The Twelve Disciples’ by Tadashi Agi (a pseudonym used by a brother and sister writing team) and Shu Okimoto (illustrator). It’s an award winning Manga series with a wine focus that Decanter described as “Arguably the most influential wine publication of the past 20 years“. This is not as absurd as it first appears when you consider the rise of the Asian wine market and the importance of engaging younger wine drinkers. The Drops of God has been directly linked with price rises in specific wines but, more interestingly, has also captured the imagination of people who may not have previously considered esoteric Burgundys and sensory issues in wine.
I had seen a few of the original Japanese issues, and even skimmed a French one, but have been eagerly awaiting it in English so I could really immerse myself and assess the overall quality. First impressions are not mine though. Eldest son Luke ripped through it before I got home from work and declared it ‘really good’. He is an avid reader, really loves Manga (Bleach, Naruto and Toriko are favourites) and I respect his knowledge. It is interesting that he is articulating more questions about wine than usual and is keen to read the next one. I guess it therefore passes muster when judged simply on ‘Manga merit’. Not a bad start…
Reading ‘backwards’ and right to left is a bit of a challenge for me, but in terms of narrative, it is pretty straightforward; the son of an influential wine critic has to identify mystery wines to claim his inheritance. There are the usual supporting cast, mysteries and twists but the most interesting aspect is the take on wine and tasting. The protagonist Shizuku has been ‘trained’ to identify aromas from an early age but has never tasted wine. He is a blank slate and this allows us to join him on a voyage of discovery where he challenges orthodoxy and relates to wine in a unique way. During this voyage he is exposed to some of the rarest and most celebrated wines (First Growths and Burgundys from Jayer feature prominently) but also to cheaper, sometimes more interesting, alternatives. The story touches on the importance of context, drinking windows, terroir, the influence of critics, blind tastings and most of the other big issues in the world of wine. As such it provides a effective, novel and accessible introduction to wine.
In terms of artwork, there is lots to enjoy, especially in the use of illustrations that are used to create metaphorical descriptions of a wine. The Angelus (originally titled ‘A Prayer for the Potato Crop’) by Millet is Mouton Rothschild 82 and Mont Pérat 01 is Freddie Mercury and Queen. An image is a richer and more enjoyable description of a wine than any score will ever be and the use of imagery and metaphor like this should be encouraged.
There are some weaknesses. The dialogue, like many translations, does not always scan that well. Depth is limited by the genre and many comics suffer from a lack of space for words. Illustrations do supplement this and are why ‘graphic novels’ can succeed so well but these are not always the most dynamic or creative drawings out there. There are also minor factual inaccuracies and more than a few cliches along the way. However these should not put you off as there is much to enjoy and I couldn’t put it down. It also had me reflecting on past wine experiences and triggered a severe craving for pinot (review of the Potel Beaune I plumped for will follow). I have already ordered the second volume (out in December) and I guess that in terms of reviews that is a definitive statement.
Agi, T. and Okimoto, S. (2011) The Drops of God Vertical New York
originally published in Japanese by Kodansha as Kami no Shizuku (2005)